Truffles and Meats: Staples of the Umbria Region of Italy

Join Celebrity Chef Maria Liberati, author of the best selling book The Basic Art of Italian Cooking, as she visits Umbria, Italy. Find out about truffles and the famous meats of the Umbria region of Italy.

Is your mouth watering for a meaty truffle? Well, as distinct as the cooking is in Umbria, you won’t find a chocolate truffle infused with pork, but separately these two items top the list of famous specialty foods coming from the beautiful Umbria region in Italy. With its tree-laden grounds scoured by uniquely trained “truffle dogs,” Umbria maintains favorable conditions for which wild mushrooms abound during truffle season. The soil created by oak and willow trees are said to be rich in Norcia, one of Umbria’s most reliable areas for bountiful truffle raising and famous for its black truffles and flourishing truffle trade industry.

Coming to a close at the end of March, truffle season harvests Umbria’s most sought after and expensive treat starting in December each year. Secretive and mysterious, the professional truffle harvesters of Umbria, known as the trifolau, partake in festivals and other celebrations throughout truffle hunting season seeking truffles of all sizes and shapes and pungency. Once these truffles are found, they are cooked and stored, or sold to restaurants and added to high cuisine recipes.

Eaten alone or thrown into a pasta dish, truffles are a delectable addition to various Italian dishes including but not limited to roast squab, mayonnaise, cakes, rice, fondue and a variety of spreads and sauces. The legacy of the truffle is attributed to its versatility and flavor. No other terrain in the world produces as many truffles as Italy does and 80% of Italy’s truffles come from Umbria. Gastronomes around the world agree that Italian truffles possess a earthy and heavenly taste, though black truffles from Norcia are known to be less aromatic than its white complement. The truffle is not the only hot commodity in Umbria, as there are just as many butchers as there are truffle hunters in this extraordinary region.

If you’ve ever been to an open market in Italy, you are sure to have been surrounded by the various meats that have been butchered, prepared, and sold for generations. Most commonly in the form of salami, sausages, and ham, Umbria’s primary meat is pork. Dishes such as mazzafegati (pig’s liver sausages), porchetta (pork roast), and Umbrian mortadella (seasoned sausage mixed with pork and bacon) are recognized as flavorful, sweet, and savory. It’s said that Italian butchers do not hold back when it comes to the pig, doing everything and anything that can be done to them in the name of cooking. From the pig’s feet and cheeks to the ox’s tongue, the Italians are creative and ingenious in how they approach the livestock from which they create their specialty foods and dishes. Umbria’s conscientious cooking processes, embedded in history and perfected through experimentation, continue to provide pleasing treats and meats.

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  1. Posted January 1, 2010 at 8:20 am

    Happy to have read your article. Yes, Norcia is one of the best place for black truffles, but the Gubbio area as well is really rich of this product, and it has the white truffles as well. They are incredible, eating a dish of “strangozzi” or “tagliatelle” with truffles is one of the most delicious thing in the world!

    We tasted one of these dish in Gubbio few days ago, if you want to see a picture here’s the link:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/umbrialovers/4203445142/

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